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Tredelad Havsracer – Rune Eurenius

Havsracer – Rune Eurenius

Runes mycket intressanta delbara Havsracer är sjösatt!

"Hej Björn,

Skickar ett par bilder från premiärturen med min Havsracer. Tycker kajaken ger en härlig sportbilskänsla och jag njöt i fulla drag av provrundan. Omställningen från Hunter var helt odramatisk. Jag kände mig snabbt säker i sittbrunnen, trots den förhållandevis låga initialstabiliteten. Fartresurserna kan jag inte uttala mig om då jag är pinsamt otränad.

Det egenkonstruerade integralrodret som jag tidigare presenterat (http://www.utsidan.se/albums/view.htm?ID=7763) fungerar helt tillfredsställande, även i låg fart. Den lätta fina kolfibersargen från Petrus fick plats med någon centimeter till godo.

Havsracer – Rune Eurenius

Byggandet komplicerades av att kajaken gjorts delbar. Det var enda alternativet för mig då jag saknar lämplig lokal. Kajaken är byggd under 10 månader i min tvårumslägenhet på 56 kvm. Det har faktiskt fungerat riktigt bra. Problemet med damm och oväsen eliminerades nästa helt tack vare en tystgående excenterslipmaskin som kopplats med slang till min dammsugare.

Sammanfogningslösningen av sektionerna känns solid och glappfri. Allt hålls på plats med totalt nio försänkta M8 bult, skruvade i kupolmuttrar som limmats i 40mm lamellträ. Bultarnas genomföring i skrovet har förstärkts med 15mm glasfiberbussningar."

En videosnutt från sjösättningen: vimeo.com/69502755 (integralroder som hjälpmotor ;-)

Kommentarer

Smart lösning med delningen av kajaken när du har ont om utrymme att bygga (och förvara?) på! Det där blev jag riktigt imponerad av, -snyggt!

Rune,

Undaunted by limited apartment space, you seem to have put some very fine craftsmanship into the project. Congratulations!

Your solution to limited transport and storage space by dividing the kayak into three parts is intriguing. Here in Japan, the land of overcrowding, that could be a boon to kayakers. Please let us know how it works out over a longer time.

By the way, a designer in New Zwaland of sailing outrigger canoes and proas, Gary Dierking, has done the same thing, making one of his longer canoes, his Wa'apa, divisible into three parts. An interesting aspect of his solution is that he has the plywood bulkhead panels face each other on the outside, with the timber framing inside each compartment, so the timber is not exposed to water. He saturates the exposed plywood with epoxy. He puts a neoprene washer round each bolt before he joins the sections together on the beach. That prevents water seepage through the bolt holes.

I wish you much success with your new kayak.

Rick

Thank you both for the kind comments :-)

Rick, I found quite a lot of info about Gary Dierking on the net. Even a Wa´apa video at YouTube. Interesting stuff.

Typographical error. Gary Dierking is in New Zealand.

Rick, that is the usual way (as seen here), but Runes method has three advantages (if I understand it correctly from the pics): 1. the timber "keying" the parts (lego-block-style), and thus releaving the bolts of the any sheering forces, 2. the bolts are accessible from the outside – no crawling into small compartments to reach bolts or nuts (the Sea Racer is a low volume kayak) and 3. no exposed bolts that can get damaged during transport and storing.

Have I got it right, Rune?

That is correct Björn. And Rick, yes, I will let you all know if the joints fail in any way.

For the piece of mind, I cover the lower bolts with duct tape to prevent them to come off. They all seem to remain tight so far

Ah! Maybe I understand. Minutely scrutinizing Rune's photo of the kayak in the back of his car while taking into account your description, Björn, if I see aright, there are five bolts fastening the fore end of the cockpit section to the stem section of the boat, and four or five bolts for joining the after end, each bolt screwed in from the outside of the hull skin. The two ends we cannot see in that photo must, therefore, have projections from their bulkheads that fit snugly into the recesses in the bulkheads we can see. Is that it?

Should I read that M8 bolt as being 8mm ø?

Rick, You´re right in your assumptions. Here´s an illustrative image http://www.utsidan.se/albums/viewpic.htm?ID=66537

All wood surfaces are sealed with fiberglass/epoxy

Thank you, Rune. The photos very well illustrate it.

I am further amazed that you actually built the kayak in the three parts and still managed to get such a fair hullform. I had assumed that you must have cut it into the three parts with doubled bulkheads installed, after gluing up the planking.

Congratulations on a remarkable job: for how well you solved your space and attachment problems, how well the boat came out, and especially for your tenacity.

Rick

Very ingenious, Rune! I'm currently about 80% of the way into a 5-piece sectional Black Pearl build. I'm using the "usual" method of double bulkheads and through bolts. Your method seems like it should be more robust.

Forgot: With the exterior bolts it'll also be much easier to put together and take apart on the beach. Well done.

Här finns ett bildspel med kommentarer på min i vinter itusågade och hopskruvade Hunter.

Samma konstruktionsidé:

https://www.utsidan.se/albums/slideshow.htm?album=9252

"Itresågade" blir det ju. Men då låter man ju som en stockholmare..

Thanks for sharing this Rune! Its very inspirational, and I'm hoping I can pull it off. To alleviate the concern of bolts coming undone I'm thinking stacking some regular nuts followed by a Nyloc nut and a dome nut instead of the long nut shown in the photo album.

I just hope I don't chicken out when it comes time to take the saw to the hull..

Hi Petter!

I have paddled a lot in my three piece Hunter the past two years and the bolts have not shown any tendency to come loose. I guess this can be attributed to the large friction area of the countersunk heads.

Captive nuts are of course a simple alternative to my solution with extension nuts.

https://www.thomassondesign.com/en/bygga/download/take-apart-kayak

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